
It’s been pretty crochet-heavy around here, and will be even more so for a while, since I’m working on two large crochet orders at the moment. Which is good news for you, if you’re into new designs or free patterns. To be honest, I love crochet and it will probably always be sneaking into a lot of posts, but I would like to try balance it out with other crafts too.
Here’s a freebie for you guys. There are other amigurumi cube patterns out there – I don’t know if there’s another one exactly like this – but I wrote it from scratch.
SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED
Yarn in 4 different colours (I used grey, green, white and blue)
Crochet Hook: 4mm (G)
Yarn sewing needle
Stuffing

CROCHET PATTERN INFORMATION
- Written in US terminology
- Difficulty: Easy
- Necessary Skills: Basic sewing, working in the round, and the crochet stitches mentioned below in abbreviations
- Yarn Weight: Double Knit (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)
- Gauge: Not really important, as long as the stuffing doesn’t show through your stitches. Avoid over-stuffing
- Colours: Try to pick colours from the same brand, to ensure that they are all the same thickness. Not all DK yarn is the same thickness, and you could end up with a wonky cube.
ABBREVIATIONS
- R = Row/ Round
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SS = Slip stitch
- SC = Single crochet
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
SIDES
(Make 6)

R1: 4 SC in a magic ring. (4)
R2: Working in the round (in a spiral) from now on, 2SC in each st around. (8)
Now increase the corners by 3 stitches in each round:
R3: SC in next st, 3SC in next st. (SC in next st, 3SC in next st) repeat 3 times. (16)
R4: SC in next st, 3SC in next st. (SC in next 3 sts, 3SC in next st) repeat 3 times. SC in next 2 sts. (24)
R5: SC in next 2sts, 3SC in next st. (SC in next 5 sts, 3SC in next st) repeat 3 times. SC in next 3 sts. (32)
R6: SC in next 3sts, 3SC in next st. (SC in next 7 sts, 3SC in next st) repeat 3 times. SC in next 4 sts. (40)
R7: SC in next 4sts, 3SC in next st. (SC in next 9 sts, 3SC in next st) repeat 3 times. SC in next 5 sts.(48)
Finish with a SS in the next 2 sts. Tie off.
Make 2 squares in each colour (6 squares in total) per cube.

DOTS
(Make 21)

R1: 8 HDC in a magic ring. Join with a SS into 1st HDC. (8)
Tie off, leaving a thread for sewing the Dots to the Cube.
Make 21 Dots in total.
I used the following colour combinations:
- Numbers 1 and 6 in white, on a green block.
- Numbers 3 and 4 in white, on a grey block.
- Number 2 in green, on a white block.
- Number 5 in grey, on a white block.
Here is a diagram showing the position that the dots should be in on your dice. You can use this to plan which colours to use. The rule to follow is: opposite faces are arranged to always sum to seven.

ATTACHING THE DOTS
This part requires a bit of hand sewing. I know that puts some people off – I’m one of those people! I tried Slip Stitching them on but they didn’t look as tidy as I wanted. So, it’s up to you which method you use, but hand sewing is better!

Turn the Squares over and sew the Dots on the Wrong Side of each one.
Middle Dots should be aligned with the center of the Square.
All dots around the perimeter should be positioned so that the edge of the Dot is at the base of the last row. So there will be 1 row open around the edge of the Square after the Dots are attached.

ATTACHING THE SQUARES
SIDES
The squares are joined with the Wrong Side facing up.
Working into the Wrong Side, insert your hook in the middle stitch of the 3 increases at corner of a Square.

Insert your hook into the same stitch on a second Square, working into the Right Side.

Join yarn with a SS, ch1. SC into the same stitch, working through both layers.
Continue working through both layers, and SC into the next 12 sts. Tie off. Side Seam made. (13)

Add 2 more Squares in this manner, until you have a strip of 4 Squares in a row, then join the first and last Square together with the same method.
You will now have a 4-sided box, without a top or bottom.
TOP & BOTTOM

Insert your hook into the last SC used by a Side Seam, and into the middle stitch of the 3 increases at the corner of the Top Square. Join yarn with a SS. Ch1, SC through both layers. SC in next 12 sts. The last stitch will be shared by the Side Seam. (13)

SS into the last SC of the Side Seam.
Working into 1st st on next Side Square, and into the same st of Top Square, make 1SC. You will now have 2SC in the corner of the Top Square.

{ front & back view of the same corner point }

SC in next 12 sts. The last stitch will be shared by the Side Seam. (13)
SS into the last SC of the Side Seam.
Carry on joining the square in this manner, with 13 SC across each edge, and a SS into each Side Seam.
End with a SS into 1st SC. Tie off and sew in loose ends.
Stuff the cube, (I made mine quite soft) then attach the Bottom Square with the same method.
FLUFFY SEAMS
Worked in exactly the same way as the other seams, using a textured yarn that looks furry when worked up.

FINISHING & CARE
Sew in any loose ends.
When the toys need to be cleaned, follow the washing and care instructions on the yarn’s tag.
Small parts can be a choking hazard. Make sure all hand-sewn components are firmly attached.
Congratulations, you’re done!!!
I would love to see your cubes – if you’re on Instagram, tag @Projectarian with your #AmigurumiCubes!
Remember to subscribe so you don’t miss the next free pattern!
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IMPORTANT NOTE
Although this pattern is free, it is strictly prohibited to edit, duplicate, or sell the pattern itself, but you CAN sell any physical item that you make from the pattern. You are welcome to share this post as much as you like, and you can download a PDF copy of the pattern HERE so you can use it offline.
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